Field Notes: Japan 2005

WORD FROM TAKAYAMA

HEIDI -

Our visits to Matsumoto and Takayama have broadened our horizons a bit but also have contributed to a growing sense of fatigue among quite a few members of the group. Fortunately we finished up our walking tour of Takayama shortly aftrer noon yesterday, giving everyone "free time" to do whatever. I suspect quite a few chose to nap away the afternoon.

I'm holding up OK but our Japanese guide, Ueno-san, must have gotten the word from JTB that I like to be given the chance to insert my own commentary on the places we visit; he has told the group that I provide the "main course" and he, "the side dishes" for each place visited. The earphone guides are great, appreciated by all, especially the stragglers and those who tend to wander off on their own; however, their use keeps me online almost all the time searching for something to say. The combination has left me more than a little exhausted at the end of the day. But I really am in my element and am thoroughly enjoying myself: the group is a dream, self-policing, prompt, interested and complementary with few complaints and only the expected degree of reluctance to engage the unfamiliar.

Our visit to the castle in Matsumoto was highlighted by a display of guns collected by a local resident over the years. I haven't seen any as well laid out before, very complete and with good explanatory materials included. It gave me an unexpected chance to tell the story of "giving up the gun", one that we all need to hear in this increasingly dangerous world. The woodblock print museum had a VERY intriguing exhibit of works depicting various entertainments from the Tokugawa period: professional top spinners, depictions of various monsters and other oddities, a portrait of red haired half-Japanese, half-Dutch brothers. Now I have some references to track down so as to better understand what we saw!

Our afternoon bus ride through the mountains up to Kamikochi and beyond to Takayama was, despite the cloudy weather and misty rain (or perhaps because of that) one of the most spectatular I've ever taken. The autumn colors were muted but pervasive; and the vistas presented at every turn, quite wonderful. Coupled with the train ride between Tokyo and Matsumoto, it made for a very satisfying (if tiring) day.

The hotel here in Takayama is fairly new, a huge place with a wonderful public bath which I have takenadvantage of twice already. The town
itself seems more popular than ever, especially among the Japanese.

Like Kurashiki, commercial interests seem to have taken the upper hand. There are lots of new shops behind the traditional facades along with the traditional /sake /breweries and /miso/ factories. This is, as you'd expect, a mixed blessing. Some of the shops (if you look up) still provide the anticipated atmosphere; others, though, have been reconfigured in a contemporary way and filled with all manner of modern crafts and souveniers, somewhat mitigating the overall effect. Other parts of town have been significantly updated, and the local Tokugawa era municipal complex is undergoing a very nice and complete renovation. The mixed price of "success", I guess...

Today we visit a farmhouse village museum before heading off bv train to Hiroshima. Folks are anticipating their first "bullet train" rise with glee! Once we arrive in Hiroshima this evening I'll try figuring out a time to call. I'll just use a "regular" phone if I can't figure out how to get my cellphone working. Thanks for all the news about what's happening on the homefront. Talk to you soon.

Love,

LEE